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Article By Colleen Coffield Daily News Columnist    Atmosphere:   Value: Food: Overall rating: 3/5

NAVARRE – With the growing presence of chain restaurants, making dining out as increasingly homogenous experience, it is nice to see a restaurant where the personality of the owners comes through. DeVinci’s, owned by Ron and Michelle Schaeffer, combines the owners’ talents and hobbies nicely in their unique restaurant.
Established in 1988, Devinci’s touts itself as Navarre’s oldest restaurant. In addition to serving good, substantial Italian-American cuisine, Devinci’s also serves as a gallery for Ron’s artwork. He is primarily a leather artist, but you will also see other art formats including carved glass that resembles a three-dimensional aquarium.
The artwork is found throughout the restaurant, which is divided into separate rooms, each with several tables. The overall feel is of a cozy, bustling neighborhood Italian restaurant. DeVinci’s doesn’t take reservations, and we had a wait for a table of 15 minutes or so on a busy weekend evening.
Devinci’s is a family-friendly restaurant, with a menu including pizza and pasta for the kids. That said, DeVinci’s is also sensitive to all their guests. Devinci’s has a varied menus of Italian specialties, and each dish is served in generous portions. For example, an appetizer of stuffed mushrooms produced a platter of two large Portobello mushroom caps filled with spinach, then topped with a thick, creamy garlic sauce and Parmesan cheese. We also had an order of brochette, which was listed on the specials board just outside the front door, and an order of soft bread sticks served warm with marinara sauce. Potato skins with bacon, chives, cheese and sour cream, and mozzarella cheese sticks are also on the appetizer menu.
Our dinner entrees came with a side salad, which can also be ordered separately. A chef’s salad is also on the menu. It features crisp lettuce topped with ham, cheeses, pepperoni, tomatoes, cucumbers, egg, olives and Italian peppers. It is offered in substantial full-size, or smaller half (that pairs well with a few slices of pizza). DeVinci’s pizza was outstanding. They serve 6-, 12- and 16-inch pies with your choice of toppings. Or try one of the specialty pizzas. One of the favorites, and my favorite dish at Devinci’s, is Fast Eddie’s Clam & Garlic Pizza. The thin crust was layered with a thick coating of Alfredo sauce, loads of garlic, and lots of minced clam. Double cheese added even more richness, and green onions gave it color and good flavor. The Cajun Shrimp, sausage, onions and peppers, among the toppings; and a steak pizza includes roast beef, mushrooms and tomatoes. There is a Chicken Cordon Bleu version, one with all vegetables, and another for meat lovers. Among the casual fare are sandwiches, including Italian sausage, meatball, Philadelphia cheese steak, and chicken Parmesan sandwiches. Sandwiches are served with a side of spaghetti and salad, but can be served with chips only for a little less.
Devinci’s entrees range from homey Italian favorites like manicotti, lasagna and spaghetti with meatballs, to more upscale seafood presentations, Steak Diane, and Veal Marcela.
One of the best places to look for an entrée is on the specials board, where we found a mixed seafood pasta dish, and a grouper with a creamy garlic sauce. Our fish was lightly fried to crisp golden brown, but remained moist and tender inside.
DeVinci’s has a number of healthy entrees as well. Steamed mussels, a light clam sauce, and chicken with mushrooms and garlic are all offered served on linguine. Chicken and veal picatta, served with linguine in garlic butter, are also identified as healthy choices.
DeVinci’s food tastes like it is made right there, and each of our dishes came out freshly prepared and at the correct temperature. That is quite a feat when you consider the variety on the menu, and how busy they were when we visited.
The desserts also seem to be made in house. We had a very good ice cream pie with a crisp cookie crust. Even better was a rich cream brulee. We got a bit of a show with the brulee, as our server prepared the caramelized sugar crust tableside.
The cover of Devinci’s menu displays the saying “More then a Meal, It’s a Work of Art.” Devinci’s is part restaurant and part art gallery, But more than that. It is all good.

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