NAVARRE – With the growing presence of chain
restaurants, making dining out as increasingly homogenous
experience, it is nice to see a restaurant where the personality
of the owners comes through. DeVinci’s, owned by Ron and
Michelle Schaeffer, combines the owners’ talents and hobbies
nicely in their unique restaurant.
Established in 1988, Devinci’s touts itself as Navarre’s oldest
restaurant. In addition to serving good, substantial
Italian-American cuisine, Devinci’s also serves as a gallery for
Ron’s artwork. He is primarily a leather artist, but you will
also see other art formats including carved glass that resembles
a three-dimensional aquarium.
The artwork is found throughout the restaurant, which is divided
into separate rooms, each with several tables. The overall feel
is of a cozy, bustling neighborhood Italian restaurant.
DeVinci’s doesn’t take reservations, and we had a wait for a
table of 15 minutes or so on a busy weekend evening. Devinci’s
is a family-friendly restaurant, with a menu including pizza and
pasta for the kids. That said, DeVinci’s is also sensitive to
all their guests. Devinci’s has a varied menus of Italian
specialties, and each dish is served in generous portions. For
example, an appetizer of stuffed mushrooms produced a platter of
two large Portobello mushroom caps filled with spinach, then
topped with a thick, creamy garlic sauce and Parmesan cheese. We
also had an order of brochette, which was listed on the specials
board just outside the front door, and an order of soft bread
sticks served warm with marinara sauce. Potato skins with bacon,
chives, cheese and sour cream, and mozzarella cheese sticks are
also on the appetizer menu.
Our dinner entrees came with a side salad, which can also be
ordered separately. A chef’s salad is also on the menu. It
features crisp lettuce topped with ham, cheeses, pepperoni,
tomatoes, cucumbers, egg, olives and Italian peppers. It is
offered in substantial full-size, or smaller half (that pairs
well with a few slices of pizza). DeVinci’s pizza was
outstanding. They serve 6-, 12- and 16-inch pies with your
choice of toppings. Or try one of the specialty pizzas. One of
the favorites, and my favorite dish at Devinci’s, is Fast
Eddie’s Clam & Garlic Pizza. The thin crust was layered with a
thick coating of Alfredo sauce, loads of garlic, and lots of
minced clam. Double cheese added even more richness, and green
onions gave it color and good flavor. The Cajun Shrimp, sausage,
onions and peppers, among the toppings; and a steak pizza
includes roast beef, mushrooms and tomatoes. There is a Chicken
Cordon Bleu version, one with all vegetables, and another for
meat lovers. Among the casual fare are sandwiches, including
Italian sausage, meatball, Philadelphia cheese steak, and
chicken Parmesan sandwiches. Sandwiches are served with a side
of spaghetti and salad, but can be served with chips only for a
little less.
Devinci’s entrees range from homey Italian favorites like
manicotti, lasagna and spaghetti with meatballs, to more upscale
seafood presentations, Steak Diane, and Veal Marcela.
One of the best places to look for an entrée is on the specials
board, where we found a mixed seafood pasta dish, and a grouper
with a creamy garlic sauce. Our fish was lightly fried to crisp
golden brown, but remained moist and tender inside.
DeVinci’s has a number of healthy entrees as well. Steamed
mussels, a light clam sauce, and chicken with mushrooms and
garlic are all offered served on linguine. Chicken and veal
picatta, served with linguine in garlic butter, are also
identified as healthy choices.
DeVinci’s food tastes like it is made right there, and each of
our dishes came out freshly prepared and at the correct
temperature. That is quite a feat when you consider the variety
on the menu, and how busy they were when we visited.
The desserts also seem to be made in house. We had a very good
ice cream pie with a crisp cookie crust. Even better was a rich
cream brulee. We got a bit of a show with the brulee, as our
server prepared the caramelized sugar crust tableside.
The cover of Devinci’s menu displays the saying “More then a
Meal, It’s a Work of Art.” Devinci’s is part restaurant and part
art gallery, But more than that. It is all good.